Soos

Nasi Lemak

Coconut-steamed rice with a dark, punchy sambal that builds heat slowly, served with traditional accompaniments — the version here is closer to the hawker-stall original than most Toronto kitchens manage

Roti Canai

Flaky, layered flatbread with a burnished crust served with curry dhal for dipping — the lamination is done properly, not the dense, doughy shortcut

Curry Laksa

Coconut curry broth with rice noodles — full-bodied and aromatic, the kind of bowl that earns the trip on a cold Toronto night

Beef Rendang

Slow-braised beef in a concentrated dry coconut curry — deeply spiced and tender, the caramelized exterior is where most of the flavor lives

Char Kway Teow

Wok-fried flat rice noodles with smoky breath from a hot wok — when the kitchen is on, the wok hei comes through clearly