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Taqueria · Albany · $
Charred, thinly sliced beef with a good sear and smoky char, served on fresh corn tortillas with onion and cilantro
Spit-roasted pork with classic achiote seasoning and a hint of sweetness, the kind of al pastor that earns repeat visits
Spit-roasted pork with pineapple on doubled corn tortillas — the clearest test of a taqueria's fundamentals and reportedly a strong suit here
Slow-cooked pork with crispy edges and juicy interior, classic Jalisco-style with good lard flavor
Tender braised beef tongue with a silky, melt-in-your-mouth texture that converts skeptics on the first bite
Grilled beef on corn tortillas with cilantro and onion — a crowd-pleasing anchor of the menu
Braised beef head meat with rich, unctuous texture — the offal option that rewards adventurous eaters
Slow-cooked pork, crispy at the edges, a reliable order at most well-run taquerias
Smaller, simpler corn tortilla plates — respectable but the burritos are clearly where Gordo shines
