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Grilled bread rubbed hard with ripe tomato and finished with good olive oil — deceptively simple and the truest test of whether a Spanish kitchen gets it right
Served tableside in the pan with proper socarrat on the bottom, available in seafood and mixed meat versions — the centerpiece dish the kitchen is built around
Creamy jamón ibérico béchamel inside a thin, properly fried crust — a reliable benchmark of kitchen discipline
Crispy fried potatoes with both a spiced tomato salsa brava and aioli — better executed here than at most Bay Area Spanish spots