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Wood-fire grilled rack chops with a carbonized crust and rosy interior, seasoned with lemon and herbs — the defining dish of the restaurant
Charred tentacles with a tender chew, dressed simply with olive oil and lemon — a benchmark version of a dish most restaurants overcook
Whole branzino or sea bass roasted in the hearth, arriving table-side with crisp skin and moist flesh that benefits from the smoke
Rotating selection of Greek dips — taramosalata, skordalia, tzatziki — served with warm grilled pita that makes the $18 entry price feel reasonable